How to get to the boulders
The bouldering area is outside the the town of Ausserferrera. It's a short 5-minute walk from Bodhi Camping and the Gasthaus Edelweiss; walk over the bridge to the first boulders
By Car
From Zürich follow the direction to Chur,Thusis, Andeer on the A13/E43.
Directly after a uphill tunnel at Andeer, take the exit to Rofla/Ferrera/Avers/Juf , after that hold left to Ausserferrera, Juf. After a few kilometers you will see an old ruin on the right hand side. 200meters further to the right the parking of bodhi camping. – P-Magic Wood
From Milano follow the road to Lugano,Bellinzona, San Bernandino, Splügen, Andeer on the A13/E43.Take the exit Ferrera, Avers/Juf and drive trough to the campground.
By Public Transport
From Zürich via Chur, Thusis. After by bus to Andeer direction Ausserferrera./Juf. Just at the parking of the camping there is a bus stop called ”Alte Schmelze”
From Milano via Lugano Bellinzona. After by bus ton San Bernadino, Splügen to the Roflaschlucht. From there you’ll have to walk along the street for approximately 20min or wait for the next bus to Ausserferrea/Juf.
Train Service
Bouldering is permitted ONLY in the blue area
The Bouldering Area
Respect the climbing zone
Boulderig is permitted only in the marked zone. Everything over the upper bridge and below Bruno Block: Never Ending Story, Supernova etc., is NOT in the boulder area and CANNOT BE CLIMBED
The bouldering area is in BLUE
Boulders in the rest of the valley IS NOT PERMITTED and prohibited for climbing.
Your cooperation is necessary so we may continue to climb the boulders. We must be respectful and keep the peace with local residents and the landowners.
Download the climbing zone map
Rules & Responsibility
Please follow these rules at all times
The rules are in place to preserve the natural beauty and to maintain the goodwill of local residents and landowners so we may continue to enjoy Magic Wood for future generations of climbers.
1
No Wild Camping
Wild camping is strictly prohibited! This includes stopping overnight with your bus or camper outside the campground
5
No Fires
Fires are allowed at the official fireplace on the campground only. No fires at Magic Wood.
2
Toilets
Waste buckets and toilets are available for use. Please spare the environment and the wild animals of your waste. Pick up any trash you see from others
6
No Music
If you need to listen to music, use headphones.
3
Trails and Paths
Use trails and established paths. We want to conserve the vegetation, so please don’t take short cuts regardless how tempting.
7
Safety Awareness
Magic Wood is a rockfall/slide zone. The water level can rise quickly, and the current is fast. Always be aware of your surroundings.
4
Clean Boulders
Please brush away any marks you’ve left on the boulders. Use only brushes with natural bristles, and clean your shoes before climbing.
8
Report
If you do brush a new boulder, break out a hold or recognize something is not right, please let us know.
History
Discovered in 1997 Outside Ausserferrera
The bouldering area is outside the village of Ausserferrera on a sea level of 1300 meters against a steep southeast forest slope. It was discovered by a group led by Thomas Steinbrugger while ice climbing in the valley of Avers in 1997. The land was under private use for a time, then after a major clean up and grooming more climbers discovered the area and it soon became an international destination for the world climbing community.
Developers: Thomas Steinbrugger, Jack Müller, Bernd Zangerl. Over time the local, national, and international climbing community have volunteered their time to conserve and develop Magic Wood for the future generations of climbers.
Today thousands of visitors come to Magic Wood each year to experience the perfect rock quality of the boulders.
What to expect
Premium Gneiss
Peak Season is May to October. The months before or after can be perfect, but there is always a risk of rain or wet snow. Check the weather carefully before you visit.
Rock Character. Crimps, Slopers and Pinches can be found on athletic boulders featuring premium gneiss. Slaps, step roof or highballs needs strength and a strong will. The landing area is mostly rocky and blocked so we recommend using an abundance of crash pads. The more crash pads the better.
After rainy periods some boulders can dry very quickly, and the rest will dry over time. After 24 – 48 hours the entire bouldering area will be mostly dry and clean.
Topos
Available in our climbing shop at the Gasthaus Edelweiss.
Learn More About Conservation
