The bouldering area is place shortly before the village of Ausserferrera on a sea level of 1300meters on a step southeast forrest slope. It was discovered by a group around Thomas Steinbrugger while ice climbing in the valley of Avers in 1997. After private use and cleaning some major lines, more people got invited or found the spot. The wild romantic forrest reached, because of the perfect rock quality, fast international popularity. Until today Magic Wood counts app. 1000 boulder problems up to 8C with potential for more.
Thomas Steinbrugger, Jack Müller, Bernd Zangerl...later friends of the and friends of friends as well more and more locals. Now a days, sometimes visitors.
Crimps, Slopers and Pinches out of premium gneiss you will find on the athletic boulders. Slaps, step roof or highballs need a lot of power and a strong will. The landing area is mostly rocky and blocked. As more crashpads as better. After intens rain some boulders dry really quickly…and the rest one by one. After 1-2 days the most is clean and dry.
Mai until October
The month before or after that (except January-March) can be perfect, but always a risk of wet or snowy periods.
Hot to get to the boulders
From Bodhi Camping or the Gasthaus Edelweiss over one of the bridges in just 5min. to the first boulders. Please note that bouldering is just allowed in the marked zone. Everything over the upper bridge and below Bruno Block (Never Ending Story, Supernova…) is not in the boulderarea. Find below a pdf with the map of the community – in blue, the official bouldering area. Please hold on the borders and keep in the area. Boulders in the rest of the valley are not in the bouldering zone and therefore prohibited to climb. There is way enough boulder problems in Magic Wood itself...thanks for your cooperation, to avoid problems with locals, landowners...
Please take care of the following rules. You're helping to avoid access problem and keep the natural beauty of the valley - Thanks a lot.
• Wild camping is strictly prohibited! Also to stop overnight with your bus or camper outside the campground will be seen as it.
• Respect the nature! The waste buckets and toilets are available for you: Please spare the landscape and the wild animals of your emissions. Pick up trash of others too.
• Please use the visible trails and paths, don’t take short cuts, even if it’s tempting, we do not want to harm the vegetation!
• Please brush away any marks you’ve left on the boulders. Use only brushes with natural bristles. Clean your shoes before climbing.
• Fires are allowed at the official fireplace on the campground only. No fires in the wood!
• No music for public at the crag. If you need to listen to music, use headphones.
• Attention: The real climbing area “Magic Wood” is in a zone of rockfall and -slide as well as the water level can rise strongly at any time!
• Keep in mind, no Bouldering outside the Zone Plan (see Plan at camping notice board)
Thank you for your cooperation. We wish you a nice stay and accident free cranking days. For questions or in case of problems please contact the staff of bodhi climbing.
We also refer to the following links who help to prevent bouldering areas worldwide:
Golden Rules & Tips
Swiss Bloc 1 & new the Magic Wood - Bloc from Röker Verlag or Alpen en bloc 1 from Panico. Available directly @ Magic Wood (Gasthaus Edelweiss oder Bodhi Camping) as well as online on: www.bodhi.ch
If you do brush a new boulder, break out a hold or reconize someting else, please let us know and write in our guestbook at the Bodhi Climbing Lounge in the Gasthaus Edelweiss. This way we can keep the guidebooks updated in cooperation with the mentioned publishers
Here the online tope as a download: http://sloper.climbing.nl/pdf/
or the available guidebooks:
The whole collection and more you can get online or directly with us at the Gasthaus Edleweiss. Just check it out on your next Magic Wood visit.
From Zürich follow the direction to Chur,Thusis, Andeer on the A13/E43.
Directly after a uphill tunnel at Andeer, take the exit to Rofla/Ferrera/Avers/Juf , after that hold left to Ausserferrera, Juf. After a few kilometers you will see an old ruin on the right hand side. 200meters further to the right the parking of bodhi camping. – P-Magic Wood
From Milano follow the road to Lugano,Bellinzona, San Bernandino, Splügen, Andeer on the A13/E43.Take the exit Ferrera, Avers/Juf and drive trough to the campground.
by public transport
From Zürich via Chur, Thusis. After by bus to Andeer direction Ausserferrera./Juf. Just at the parking of the camping there is a bus stop called ”Alte Schmelze”
From Milano via Lugano Bellinzona. After by bus ton San Bernadino, Splügen to the Roflaschlucht. From there you’ll have to walk along the street for approximately 20min or wait for the next bus to Ausserferrea/Juf.
Where to stay
We offer the following rental services at the Gasthaus Edelweiss, as well as a service station for your bicycle or mountain bike.
The valley of Ferrera/Avers
Buy cheese, meat, sausages directly at our local farmers.
Volg supermarket in Avers-Cresta
Coop, Migros, Denner, Aldi, Lidl
The oldest city of Switzerland offers you all you need and invite you to stroll trough the old alleys.